Day 17: Nevada City

 Distance traveled: 9.1 km

Cumulative distance: 3,882.7 km

Maximums speed: 58 kph

Moving average: 24 kph

Temperature range: 24.0 - 24.0 (I wasn't riding for very long!)

I'm really loving my Airbnb spot here. It's super cute. Nan asked me if it was a trailer but I don't think it is one; it seems a little bigger to me, not that I have spent a lot of time in mobile homes. But the hosts do have several holiday trailers on the property: 3 Airstreams and three other lesser names. They buy old ones then recondition them. I had a look inside one and it was done really well, so I am pretty sure they are not hoarders. But they do have a lot of stuff. The hostess Rachael tells me they used to spend a lot of time at garage sales and the decorating inside this cabin reflects that. I don't mean that unkindly, it is a little quirky but really quaint. Actually, that describes the town. Rachael has a guy working here clearing out all the stuff. She has resolved to get the place cleaned up. Thankfully, the guests don't have to see everything since it is behind a fence. But it would be a perfect getaway spot for a couple on a motorcycle (or two). Jack. Except for the sloped, gravel driveway. But I successfully managed to turn around twice today with both mirrors intact so all is good.

A somewhat tentative parking spot.

I walked into town again today. I originally had a plan to go to the Yuba River to go swimming as it is popular around here but when I read the description of the location and accessing the river, I decided against it as it just sounded too complicated for the motorcycle. I spent a good deal of time walking around though, I was probably in town a little earlier than I needed to be because a lot of places were still closed at 10:30. However, after a couple of hours, more places were opening up. I did a little shopping for a special girl I know and hopefully I will be able to find some extra room on the bike! That is the dangerous thing when motorcycle touring and shopping. There is little margin for (packing) error, amongst any other kinds.

On the way, I once again walked by the local bone yard. I love cemeteries because there is real history

in there. In this one, many of the tombstones were from the mid 1800's, a few with stories, which is the best kind. This cemetery is "non endowed" which means that the responsibility of the upkeep falls to the descendants of the decedents buried within. Across the street was the "endowed" cemetery, meaning the state pays for the upkeep, which was far tidier and cared for. But not as interesting.

I have been craving a steak and since I have had red meat only once (or twice?) on this trip, I figure I was due. I met a foodie yesterday who told me which restaurant served the best steak in town, a 16 oz rib eye and I thought Holy Guacamole a whole pound! It has been a long time since I have been able to choke down a steak that size. Weeks at least. So while I was walking around town, I stopped in at the local wine merchant and we were discussing my dilemma: walk another 6 km round trip to go for dinner then walk back on a busy road in the dark, or find a butcher. He gave me the name of a market that sold good meat and actually, it was sort of within walking distance as it would have added only another 3 km to my day but I had probably already walked 9 or 10 so went back to the rental, had a big glass of water then got on the bike and attended the market, got myself a nice 12 oz rib eye, which I will further trim, some veggies and potatoes and I'll barbecue the steak here at the rental. I went back to the wine merchant and bought

This 1930 Bacardi is in the personal collection of the
wine shop owner. He has plans to open it this fall.

a split of nice French red wine. For all the groceries and wine, still less than the dinner out, to say nothing of a glass or two of wine and either a starter or dessert. (Can't do both anymore.) And I am having an appetizer of roasted almonds with Quebec 7 year old cheddar and a lightly truffled Gouda.

Back in business tomorrow! But not expecting cell service to be available. Heading to Lassen Volcanic National Park.

Day 16: Nevada City

Distance traveled: 214.4 km

Cumulative distance: 3,873.6

Maximum speed: 111 kph

Moving average: 65 kph

Temperature range: 6.4 - 24.6

At 2:00 a.m., I was awaken by a loud clap of thunder. I think there was two and they came within fractions of a second after the lightning. My first thought was that I took the trouble to pick a tent spot that could be shelter in the trees from heavy dew. When I was waken, my first thought was that they will find my body fried to a crisp inside my tent because I was under the highest trees in the campground. Pure lightning rods. 

Everything was wet in the morning however, I couldn't allow that to slow me down. I had an Airbnb

booked for Nevada City and the hostess promised she would do my laundry if I arrived by 1:00 pm. The alternative would have been to get on my bike as soon as I checked in and then go hang out in a laundromat for a couple of hours.  That was actually how I envisioned it would be before the trip but I was happy to not have to do that. In exchange, I offered to do some chores for her and she said that since her husband was away tonight I could use the leaf blower and blow out some cobwebs, which seem to be in abundant supply. He must have been away for a few days as she said it was normally his job.

So, getting out of the campground wasn't too tough, though I thought I would be away earlier than I was. I had picked a camp spot that would get some morning sun in anticipation of having dew on the tent and when the sun did peek up, it would have been ample to dry everything if I had been prepared to wait. As such, I just packed up everything that was dry and everything that was wet I strapped to the bike outside of any dry bags since I didn't want to get the dry stuff wet. It worked out but it was 8:45 before I had figured out how I was going to pack everything. Plus, I also wanted to wait until the last possible moment to pack the stove and food since I didn't want to have to deal with the bears having all my food sitting out on the picnic table or, worse, on the bike.

I had a route from Lake Tahoe planned for Nevada City avoiding the interstate. It took me down hwy 89 then to 49 into town. Sometimes the GPS takes me in directions that seem counter-intuitive so I stopped a couple of times to make sure I was going in the correct direction by double checking what Google Maps said but it was all good but it is still a nuisance wondering if I am going in the right direction or not. Only yesterday, the GPS took me down a private lane. However, I suspect that at one time, it had been a public road because I could see how close I was to the public road but it was just through someone's private property.

It turned out to be a great ride. Twisty, very pretty and through a few very interesting towns. One was Sierra City, which is so much of a misnomer because the sign also said Population 250. "Small" city, I guess.

When I arrived at the Airbnb, I was distraught to see it was a fairly steep driveway of coarse gravel. I took a run at it and made it up fine but get to the area where I am supposed to park and it is a slanted driveway right to left. I did manage to park the bike by angling it up the slope somewhat but a bigger issue will be getting out. I plan on going out tomorrow so I will deal with it in some fashion. I would hate to bust my brand new mirror though. 

Once I had all my wet camping gear laid out and had done my "chores", I proceeded to walk to town.

The Airbnb description said "three minutes to town". In a fast car. It was a half hour walk downhill on the way there and actually uphill on the way back. My mother had to walk to school UPHILL and then walk home UPHILL as she never failed to remind me. By the time I had walked to town, walked around a little then walked back, I had logged 7 1/2 km, according to Strava and gained 168 metres of elevation. Not a bad little workout. I actually deserved those two beers I had in town. Along with the loaf of asiago bread I bought at the bar.

Nevada City is actually a very picturesque little town filled with old buildings. Most of the stores on main street are places that sell incense, scented candles, some jewelry, clothing a couple of pubs and restaurants. Not really touristy but there was one or two places that clearly catered to tourists. Most of the buildings I saw dated from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. 

In no particular order....

Day 15: Lake Tahoe

 Distance traveled: 335.0 km

Cumulative distance: 3659.2 km

Maximum speed: 117 kph

Moving average: 44 kph

Temperature range: 12.8 - 31.0

"Distance traveled" not to be confused with how far I went, which was nowhere near 335 km. So yesterday there was some confusion about whether the road ahead of me would be open due to some road maintenance. However, i had checked on the California state highway website for the road status and since it said complete by 6:00 pm yesterday, I figured I was good to go.

It was a pretty ride including some nice tight two line road, with a crest of the summit of the pass around 8,000 feet. I find it interesting that there are signs to indicate when passing through multiples of 1,000 feet either going up to the pass or down from the pass.  I had been alternating leading or

following with a jeep going up the road, with each of us taking turns to stop and take pictures and then allowing the other to pass. Just past the summit, the other driver pulled over to look at the view so I pulled over to chat to him. I was hoping he would have a definitive answer on the road closure question. Apparently, he had done as i had and had the same information. Which  was  worthless.  As we stood there visiting, two gals driving up the hill stopped to vent to us that the road was closed because they were going...somewhere. They were quite choked but we said the the road would open again at 5:00 pm so they were going to consider that. Not me. I already knew that i was just going to turn back. I had filled up with gas, even though I really didn't need it in anticipation of this very thing happening. So after visiting, I turned the bike around and was on a new mission find myself a latte. My friend Chuck from the hill passed me a little later. He was going to try and talk his way through. Clearly that didn't work.

I did eventually find myself a latte but it was all the way back in Arnold, where I had bought myself some "insurance gas" yesterday. The night before i had booked myself an Airbnb in Nevada City for Thursday and Friday nights, so there was no point in heading over there just yet. Lake Tahoe would make for a reasonable alternative as it wasn't terribly far. 

I set the GPS to find Lake Tahoe based on the shortest distance (rather than fastest time) and I ended up going through some pretty obscure terrain. The road looked like a patchwork quilt. Steep and twisty, too.

I'm thinking this gas station hasn't been open in a while.

The price of gas on the pump says "18 cents"! And that's US!

My first thought had been to ride to Tahoe look around,  then head towards Nevada City and find a tent site on the way but there are so many campgrounds around Lake Tahoe, I just decided I would stay here. Only three hours to Nevada City from here so easy.

What is NOT so easy is bear wrangling. There are three that frequent the campground and the warden asked if i had ever been camping in bear territory. I said, "im from cNada. We.ride bears".  He said lock it or loose it because they will definitely be around. Then as I was getting ALL the food out of my top case, one of my camping neighbours came over and warned me that the bears here don't scare off easily. Banging pots, yelling foul language, nothing scares them away. It's like they are coming for your lunch money.

To say nothing of the WASPS around here. It's the usual California campground routine. Ride around, pick a spot, go back. So when I pick my spot, the gal at the gate says "oh, there are wasps at that spot". But the ranger, who was in the gate station said they are all gone. Well, as ibam setting up my tent, inhear a NEARBY thud and at first I think it is a grey bag of garbage has just dropped out of the sky. I walk over to take a closer look and the ravens have knocked the HUGE wasp nest down but it, fortunately,  is definitely dormant. 

These wasps were no match for the local ravens.

Storing AND cooking in the bear bin.

Sand is nice and water clear at Lake Tahoe.

Day 14: Big Meadow Campground, Somewhere on Hwy 4 in the Sierras

 Distance traveled: 332.7 km

Cumulative distance: 3324.2

Maximum Speed: 116 kph

Moving average: 61 kph

Temperature range: 13.6 - 31.6

I started my day with two coffees, courtesy of my Swiss friends Nico and Melanie. They rented a camper in Vancouver and are spending a total of two months in western North America. The coffee was very welcome: it was 1.4 degrees when I got up and there was ice on the picnic table, bear bin and motorcycle. 

I was tempted to stop back at The Mobil restaurant, where I had dinner the night before but I really wasn't hungry and there just didn't seem much upside other than to eat for the sake of eating. But I did stop and take some pictures of Lake Mono. 

From there, I made one of my objective stops for the trip: The ghost town of Bodie. It was 19 km off the highway of which only three were gravel... each way! Enough to get and the bike good and dusty. But it was a fascinating visit. The town's last inhabitants bailed in the early 50s from a peak population of 8,000, with 2,000 structures at one time, though the majority of the structures were victim to two fires which decimated the town, in 1892 and 1932. The buildings are in a state of "arrested decay" after the area was proclaimed a state park in 1962. Work continues on keeping the structures upright and intact; several of the buildings still have the furnishings, decorations and once-signs of life. There was quite a lot in the school. I'm not sure if the writing on the blackboard was original or added after the school was abandoned. 

Very fun ride over Hwy 108. Signs at the other end indicated a grade of 26% over the pass, which I find astounding. I've never seen a grade so steep. Vehicles pulling trailers were NOT RECOMMENDED, but I did see a couple. 

Not quite sure how I have cell service what out here in the boonies but I am endeavouring to upload a few pictures.

The computer gave out. Too cold but I can upload a couple from my phone. 

Dinner from The Mobil at Lee Vining. Outstanding meatloaf with garlic mash and fresh broccoli. They even had a nice wine cellar, including splits!

Day 13: Yosemite Valley and on to Lee Vining

 Distance traveled: 168.9 km For the record, this took me from 9: 15 am to 3:30 pm.

Cumulative distance : 2,991.5 km

Maximum speed: 99 kph

Moving average: unknown

Temperature range: 8.6 - 33.0

Maximum elevation: 3046 metres. For the record, that's in the clouds!

Spectacular views of El Capitan, The Half Dome and Bridal Veil Falls. Unfortunately, no spectacular view of a campground in Yosemite. I checked with someone who was not the Queen of Yosemite and was denied a camping spot.  I could have waited around till the end of the day on the hopes that somebody would cancel but if I was unlucky, I would be really stuck. Where are the Queens of Yosemite when you need them!

The Half Dome

Bridal Veil Falls. 628 feet high.

El Capitan.

That last shot is of El Capitan in the distance, on the right in the photo. A park ranger had a small telescope trained on the top and we could see climbers up there!

I'm sorry today's post is so brief. It is 6:45 pm and I need to get back to the campground before it is dark. Plus I need to do a quick check of where I am going tomorrow.

I have lots more pictures from today! But in the boonies, upload times are long.

Day 12: Yosemite Sam!

 Distance traveled: 265.5 km

Cumulative distance: 2,823.0 km

Maximum speed: 114 kph

Moving average: 64 kph

Temperature range: 21.0 – 29.2

I wasn’t in too much of rush THIS day, either. Take a shower when you have the opportunity since who knows when will be the next one? Also, I had to avail myself of that wonderful roadside-motel breakfast. However, unlike at a Canadian motel, U.S. motels have biscuits and gravy. I had a biscuit. I skipped the gravy. But there was fresh fruit, so it all evened out.

Other than to eat and have another shower, I had to sort out where I would stay tonight. Sadly, I was quite naïve about it. I figured, it’s shoulder season, so how hard could it be? Even for Yosemite? NOT. Yosemite has been fully booked for five months to the day since that is when the window opens for a reservation. On the booking website, they say to make sure the clock on your device is exactly on time as, it seems to me, people get on the website the second the booking opens. There are no campsites in the park specifically designated “first come, first served”. Book it or forget it. Unless you KNOW people in high places…

So, after exhausting my attempts to find a campsite in Yosemite, I resorted to looking at campgrounds outside of the park that appeared to have availability or were first come, first serve and I did find a couple that I thought reasonable. One, which was on the way from Sacramento, didn’t allow bookings less than two days in advance but the website showed plenty of availability for tonight so I knew I could stay there if that was my only option. However, it was well over an hour outside of the park so staying there with a view to commuting to the park wasn’t too practical. Another place I found was strictly first come, first serve and it is much closer to the park and also Lee Vining, the town to the east of the park where the gas station has good food. That was my back up campground should the first somehow fill up before my arrival. The back up campground, which may yet come into play, is at 7,800 feet (about 2400  metres) elevation, so it is winter up there at night time.

It was pretty easy to get out of Sacramento as it was a simple matter of crossing over the freeway then driving straight south, which was very handy. Navigating around a big, totally unfamiliar city when you are on a motorcycle is occasionally challenging but his couldn’t have been easier. I rode 26 km before my first turn.

Based on the recommendation from Spencer, the Honda service “guy”, I had a fun and motorcycle-popular route laid out for getting to Yosemite and going by my two targeted campgrounds. Along the way, I had a very pretty view of the countryside that looked picture-worthy though I hadn’t been fast enough with the GoPro to get a picture and there was no safe place to pull over due to the narrow shoulder, so when a right turn presented itself, I took it. Unfortunately, I did not get the same view that I had seen earlier so I was disappointed but I did snap this one.

I noticed once I was off the targeted route that the GPS did not try to take me back the way I came, so I

just continued on the road that I was on. This ended up taking me through the town of Ione and as I approached the town, I saw there a grand steeple on a somewhat gothic looking building. My assumption is always that, out in the middle of nowhere, small towns often have a monument to their religious affiliation. As I was riding through town, I kept getting glimpses of the building and I decided to take a turn up a side street to see if I could get close enough for a better look. As it turns out, it is a former reform school, Preston Castle,

originally opened in 1894. When I rode up to the gate, which was closed, I noticed that there is still barb/razor wire on top of the fence and that there were vehicles inside the compound so I presumed it was still operating as a reform school. (editor’s note: I endlessly repeat the same joke when  meeting somebody that I went to reform school. In future, I can show a picture of this place.) In fact, I was able to grab a brochure from a box near the gate that told a little more about the place. It is NOT currently in use but there is a historical society charged with its upkeep and tours are possible, including ghost tours.

I arrived at the first campground I had targeted but as I had only been on the road for 182 km and it was still early afternoon, it seemed a shame to stop so early. Plus, the park person at the gate didn’t seem too clear on how far it was to Yosemite, which surprised me somewhat. He said “an hour or an hour and a half”. So I rode around the campground to have a look and even though it was nice and with lots of room, I didn’t stop.

It had occurred to me, as I was riding, that there might be an opportunity in Yosemite. The website this morning had indicated there are sometimes cancelations and to keep checking. I thought I would ask at the park before pushing on to my number 2 backup campground.

When I came to the gate, I paid $30 (the minimum for visitors) for one week’s park use. The gate

Queen Zoe on the left, Queen Sarah on the right.

attendant directed me to the camping office just inside the boundary where, if you can believe it, I met the queens of Yosemite, Queen Sarah and Queen Zoe. They asked what they could do for me. I said “you could find me a place to camp.” And they did! I’M SAVED! I told them they were my queens and would they like to be internationally famous and be featured on a motorcycle travel blog? They were keen for that so I told them I would be taking their picture. And they put on their crowns (park hats! But no handcuffs – different branch). Thank-you Your Highnesses!

After I had secured a tent site, and a nice one, too, I went back to the bike thinking I would call Nan and tell her I had found a place for the night but that there would be no cell service at the campground. But no service at the park gate, either! So I went back to my two queens and asked them if they would email Nan and tell her that I was ok for the night. I can only presume that happened.

And It IS a nice campground. Even though I HAVE a reservation, people still sign into the campgrounds here. At the entrance is Bill, a volunteer campground host. He lays out the ground rules for me: no riding deer or elk, no smearing peanut butter on myself to get a selfie with a bear and no food inside my tent. And then the usual other stuff. And because I am riding a motorcycle, Bill and I strike up a conversation. He actually rides a small dirt bike and he keeps it here at his campsite and uses it in the park, where he is allowed. And outside of the park. Bill offers me some firewood and some potable water. People have to bring their own wood and while there is a small stream with fresh, clear water, it needs to be treated or boiled. It’s that community, you know.

And, it turns out, Bill’s queens are Sarah and Zoe, too! Apparently, they travel out every morning to inspect their lands and meet their loyal subjects. They come by this campground every morning and get a coffee and bring Bill his morning paper. Maybe his slippers.

This is the old highway into Yosemite.

Day 11: Roseville (Sacramento) CA

Distance traveled: 228.4 km

Cumulative distance: 2785.9 km

Maximum speed: 123 kph

Moving average: 66 kph

Temperature range: 15.6 - 32. 4

I'm all done and ready to go with a new mirror and tire. 

Before leaving the Airbnb, I had a "map tour" from the host, Rob. He has a treasured collection of old maps, beautifully mounted and framed, all depicting centuries-old Scotland, England, Italy and parts of North America. They weren't necessarily from the time they were mean to depict but they were old, decades or hundreds of years. Rob had offered the tour when i arrived but I was so tired at that time that I just didn't think I would be able to give it the attention it deserved and thankfully, he was respectful of that. However, he was determined and his last opportunity was this morning since I was heading out. I indicated that the departure time would be 9:30 am. I was thankful that he had a phone conference at 9:00 am. I will say it was a fascinating presentation.

It turned out to be a 10:00 am departure. I checked Google Maps just before departure to make sure there were no obstacles and in fact, there was an "incident", closing the interstate to Sacramento. Even though I don't like riding interstate highways, I figured I needed to make an exception today because Honda was going to "squeeze me in" to mount the tire and I needed to be there as quick as reasonable. Since the decision about riding the interstate was made for me, I was forced to come up with an alternate route at the last second. That route turned out to be Hwy 128 up the Alexander Valley, through the heart of Napa, the Sierra Mountains and then across the plains into Sacramento. It was bittersweet. The ride was spectacular and took me past many wineries that I knew: Berringer, Sterling, Freemark Abbey, all wineries that I like. The road was twisty and there was an endless stream of super cars, classic convertibles and stretch limos, even before 11:00 am. I would love to ride this road when I wasn't worrying about being somewhere.

I had called Roseville Honda Motorsports in Sacramento to source a tire when I decided to make the switch. They didn't have what I wanted in stock however, they told me that there were two at the Roseville YAMAHA dealer, so I had called them and spoke to Colby on the parts desk. Colby held the tire for me and  said if he wasn't too busy, he could probably get it over to Honda for me, about 5 km away. I had been visualizing tying it onto the bike, with it resting on the back of the seat with ropes securing it to the top case.  

When I finally got to Yamaha about 1:30: Colby was on lunch and my heart sank. Luckily, I was 

Colby

milling about waiting for someone to fetch the tire and Colby came back onto his shift. He got the tire and then offered to drive it over in his car to Honda for me and suggested I follow him so I could find my way. Motorcycle riders are a community, which is why I always wave. Thanks again, Colby. 

When we get to Honda, I ask Colby if he is going to come in with me and trash-talk the Honda guys. A few of them know him and say hi. But it was short lived and he was on his way back to work; it didn't have time to fool around because they were short staffed today.

I am so late in the day that the service department tells me they can't promise it will get done, since they are backed up. It's 2:30, they close at 5:30 and the service guys hadn't taken lunch yet. My only alternative would have been to carry the tire with me, which would have presented its own set of challenges, not the least of which would have been a place to install it. I elect to have them work on it and if they don't get done, well, I'll have a weekend holiday in Sacramento (since Honda is closed  Mondays).

While I am waiting, I find myself a nearby motel with the flexibility to take me for either one night or three nights but I would tell them which when I showed up.  To my amazement, the service guys roll my bike out at 4:00 pm. They lend me a socket wrench to install my mirror so that I don't have to dig everything out of my kit. While I am doing that, the service rep gives me some tips about a route to Yosemite.

When I get checked into the motel, I go for a walk... to the bar. It is a bit of a dive bar; inside they have a glassed-in smoking section; something I have never seen before. There are about 15 people inside  including about 9 sitting at the bar. The bartender, who looks a great deal like Jason Mamoa, is hardworking and knows virtually all the customers by name and is quite respectful to me, even though he looks dangerous. Like me. 

bar poster

I didn't know karaoke was still a thing!

Smoking or non-smoking?