Day 4: South of Forks, Washington

 Distance traveled: 189.4 km

Cumulative distance: 935.3

Maximum Speed: 114 kph

Moving average: 60 kph

Temperature range: 13.4 -27.0

I had planned to disparage my next door neighbours for all their talk about getting up at 4: 00 am to go fishing because when I got up at 5:20 there was no sign of activity. Nor was there any time after that up until the time when I left the campground so I guess they were good to their word. I'm surprised I didn't hear them but I certainly heard other campers at 5:20! And since I was awake, I didn't see much point in trying to go back to sleep because the campground got very busy in short order. Even at that hour, there was an endless stream of people launching their boats or getting their trucks parked or trailers or whatever. 

This place isn't a typical "tourist" place, it is one devoted to campers who like to fish.  The place smells pretty strongly of fish because the scraps are thrown into the water right there, camp sites are only a few feet apart so motor homes and trailers are packed in tight but nobody seems to mind. Everybody there is doing the same thing and enjoying themselves. I reiterate I was invited to the pot-luck tonight so Sally and her family obviously know people around. People there are do-it-yourselves-fish-charterers and it is clear that everybody is there for the same thing. From almost the moment I was up, there was a steady stream of boats launching or going out to sea. I could sometimes see three or four boats at a time heading out.

My new best friend Sally had offered me her park pass to visit Cape Flattery up past Neah Bay. I had thought about it the night before but this morning, since I was up early, it just made sense to get up there in the morning light. First however, I had to get the camping gear a bit drier and I then needed to pack up. It was a vigorous start to the morning with the temperature at a balmy 6 degrees and everything soaked like it had just been in a monsoon. It was clear all night and the dew showed it.

It was a pleasant ride up to Neah Bay as there were many fishing boats out as well as some tugs pulling barges, freighters and a couple of cruise ships all going through the Juan de Fuca Straight. Foggy in places but not so foggy that my view or vision was at all impaired.

The park is at the end of the world. I was told twice that Flattery Point is the highest latitude part of the continental U.S. A. Somebody can fact check that but it looks likely as it is right around the 49th parallel.

Sally's park pass got me an easy admission and when I got to the end of the road and parking lot, I disrobed my moto gear, extruded my tank bag backpack straps and hiked the short distance through rain forest to the end of the earth, about 15 minutes.

I was treated to the following scene on the way down. One of the most beautiful I have seen.

The view of the lighthouse at the point is the view that people are ostensibly coming to see but I think these other scenes are at least comparable.

I spent an hour at the park. It would be great to spend a few hours watching the changing light. I did have the good fortune to be there as the fog was lifting.

I can't believe my good luck at having met Sally because it is unlikely I would have made the trip out to the point. This was as good as it gets. I saw her briefly when I went back to the campground and to her place to deposit the park pass in the agreed upon spot. I had also dropped off my two dry bags in her yard and she was quickly off on another errand (of mercy, no doubt) but after she left and as I was packing the bike, the rest of her family returned from fishing. Her brother showed me pictures he had taken that morning of a pod of humpback whales that had visited them while fishing. The whales had come as close as about 20 feet. It was quite spectacular. 

I hope this does not become a pattern but by about 3:30 pm I was looking for a camp spot without much luck. I visited a couple of state camp grounds that were full, turned off the highway to a couple of others but it was unclear if they were five km or fifty km away so turned back, then decided to investigate a promising spot off the highway. It looked suitable, flat, not too rocky and trees around to hang food. However, I also discovered, as I walked around inspecting the prospects, a large pile of reasonably fresh bear scat (probably within the last 24 hours) as well as plenty of coyote poo.  I guess I am no longer the adventurer I once was.

What I did find worked out quite well. Driving down highway 101, I spotted a state sign that said "hostel 1/4 mile". As I passed the hostel, I noticed it had a nice big yard so I decided I should check it out and ask the warden if I could camp there.  As it turns out, the hostel is a person's home and there is no answer at the door. However, it DOES say hostel on the highway and there is an old "park" sign, so I figure it is as good a prospect as any and hopefully, when someone returns, they are not packing and run me off.

I set up my camp, cook some dinner and I am washing the utensils out when the homeowner Jimmy returns. He pulls into the yard and I saunter over. He does not look in any way fussed, though I did feel a little like an interloper. However, he quickly explains that this is not the first time he has come home to find someone in his yard and it is all good. Payment is by donation with the recommended amount $10. He tells me he will leave the door to the house open all night so I can use the bathroom.

OK, one last point before I go to bed. I don't know what it is about riding in Washington but my bike seems to have bad luck here. I had a tip-over in the gravel at the campground and obliterated my left side mirror so I will be looking for a bike Band-Aid on Monday. I had a tip-over last October in Washington as well.