Day 15: Lake Tahoe

 Distance traveled: 335.0 km

Cumulative distance: 3659.2 km

Maximum speed: 117 kph

Moving average: 44 kph

Temperature range: 12.8 - 31.0

"Distance traveled" not to be confused with how far I went, which was nowhere near 335 km. So yesterday there was some confusion about whether the road ahead of me would be open due to some road maintenance. However, i had checked on the California state highway website for the road status and since it said complete by 6:00 pm yesterday, I figured I was good to go.

It was a pretty ride including some nice tight two line road, with a crest of the summit of the pass around 8,000 feet. I find it interesting that there are signs to indicate when passing through multiples of 1,000 feet either going up to the pass or down from the pass.  I had been alternating leading or

following with a jeep going up the road, with each of us taking turns to stop and take pictures and then allowing the other to pass. Just past the summit, the other driver pulled over to look at the view so I pulled over to chat to him. I was hoping he would have a definitive answer on the road closure question. Apparently, he had done as i had and had the same information. Which  was  worthless.  As we stood there visiting, two gals driving up the hill stopped to vent to us that the road was closed because they were going...somewhere. They were quite choked but we said the the road would open again at 5:00 pm so they were going to consider that. Not me. I already knew that i was just going to turn back. I had filled up with gas, even though I really didn't need it in anticipation of this very thing happening. So after visiting, I turned the bike around and was on a new mission find myself a latte. My friend Chuck from the hill passed me a little later. He was going to try and talk his way through. Clearly that didn't work.

I did eventually find myself a latte but it was all the way back in Arnold, where I had bought myself some "insurance gas" yesterday. The night before i had booked myself an Airbnb in Nevada City for Thursday and Friday nights, so there was no point in heading over there just yet. Lake Tahoe would make for a reasonable alternative as it wasn't terribly far. 

I set the GPS to find Lake Tahoe based on the shortest distance (rather than fastest time) and I ended up going through some pretty obscure terrain. The road looked like a patchwork quilt. Steep and twisty, too.

I'm thinking this gas station hasn't been open in a while.

The price of gas on the pump says "18 cents"! And that's US!


My first thought had been to ride to Tahoe look around,  then head towards Nevada City and find a tent site on the way but there are so many campgrounds around Lake Tahoe, I just decided I would stay here. Only three hours to Nevada City from here so easy.

What is NOT so easy is bear wrangling. There are three that frequent the campground and the warden asked if i had ever been camping in bear territory. I said, "im from cNada. We.ride bears".  He said lock it or loose it because they will definitely be around. Then as I was getting ALL the food out of my top case, one of my camping neighbours came over and warned me that the bears here don't scare off easily. Banging pots, yelling foul language, nothing scares them away. It's like they are coming for your lunch money.

To say nothing of the WASPS around here. It's the usual California campground routine. Ride around, pick a spot, go back. So when I pick my spot, the gal at the gate says "oh, there are wasps at that spot". But the ranger, who was in the gate station said they are all gone. Well, as ibam setting up my tent, inhear a NEARBY thud and at first I think it is a grey bag of garbage has just dropped out of the sky. I walk over to take a closer look and the ravens have knocked the HUGE wasp nest down but it, fortunately,  is definitely dormant. 



These wasps were no match for the local ravens.

Storing AND cooking in the bear bin.

Sand is nice and water clear at Lake Tahoe.



Day 14: Big Meadow Campground, Somewhere on Hwy 4 in the Sierras

 Distance traveled: 332.7 km

Cumulative distance: 3324.2

Maximum Speed: 116 kph

Moving average: 61 kph

Temperature range: 13.6 - 31.6

I started my day with two coffees, courtesy of my Swiss friends Nico and Melanie. They rented a camper in Vancouver and are spending a total of two months in western North America. The coffee was very welcome: it was 1.4 degrees when I got up and there was ice on the picnic table, bear bin and motorcycle. 

I was tempted to stop back at The Mobil restaurant, where I had dinner the night before but I really wasn't hungry and there just didn't seem much upside other than to eat for the sake of eating. But I did stop and take some pictures of Lake Mono. 

From there, I made one of my objective stops for the trip: The ghost town of Bodie. It was 19 km off the highway of which only three were gravel... each way! Enough to get and the bike good and dusty. But it was a fascinating visit. The town's last inhabitants bailed in the early 50s from a peak population of 8,000, with 2,000 structures at one time, though the majority of the structures were victim to two fires which decimated the town, in 1892 and 1932. The buildings are in a state of "arrested decay" after the area was proclaimed a state park in 1962. Work continues on keeping the structures upright and intact; several of the buildings still have the furnishings, decorations and once-signs of life. There was quite a lot in the school. I'm not sure if the writing on the blackboard was original or added after the school was abandoned. 

Very fun ride over Hwy 108. Signs at the other end indicated a grade of 26% over the pass, which I find astounding. I've never seen a grade so steep. Vehicles pulling trailers were NOT RECOMMENDED, but I did see a couple. 

Not quite sure how I have cell service what out here in the boonies but I am endeavouring to upload a few pictures.

The computer gave out. Too cold but I can upload a couple from my phone. 

Dinner from The Mobil at Lee Vining. Outstanding meatloaf with garlic mash and fresh broccoli. They even had a nice wine cellar, including splits!










Day 13: Yosemite Valley and on to Lee Vining

 Distance traveled: 168.9 km For the record, this took me from 9: 15 am to 3:30 pm.

Cumulative distance : 2,991.5 km

Maximum speed: 99 kph

Moving average: unknown

Temperature range: 8.6 - 33.0

Maximum elevation: 3046 metres. For the record, that's in the clouds!

Spectacular views of El Capitan, The Half Dome and Bridal Veil Falls. Unfortunately, no spectacular view of a campground in Yosemite. I checked with someone who was not the Queen of Yosemite and was denied a camping spot.  I could have waited around till the end of the day on the hopes that somebody would cancel but if I was unlucky, I would be really stuck. Where are the Queens of Yosemite when you need them!

The Half Dome

Bridal Veil Falls. 628 feet high.





El Capitan.



That last shot is of El Capitan in the distance, on the right in the photo. A park ranger had a small telescope trained on the top and we could see climbers up there!

I'm sorry today's post is so brief. It is 6:45 pm and I need to get back to the campground before it is dark. Plus I need to do a quick check of where I am going tomorrow.

I have lots more pictures from today! But in the boonies, upload times are long.


Day 12: Yosemite Sam!

 Distance traveled: 265.5 km

Cumulative distance: 2,823.0 km

Maximum speed: 114 kph

Moving average: 64 kph

Temperature range: 21.0 – 29.2

I wasn’t in too much of rush THIS day, either. Take a shower when you have the opportunity since who knows when will be the next one? Also, I had to avail myself of that wonderful roadside-motel breakfast. However, unlike at a Canadian motel, U.S. motels have biscuits and gravy. I had a biscuit. I skipped the gravy. But there was fresh fruit, so it all evened out.

Other than to eat and have another shower, I had to sort out where I would stay tonight. Sadly, I was quite naïve about it. I figured, it’s shoulder season, so how hard could it be? Even for Yosemite? NOT. Yosemite has been fully booked for five months to the day since that is when the window opens for a reservation. On the booking website, they say to make sure the clock on your device is exactly on time as, it seems to me, people get on the website the second the booking opens. There are no campsites in the park specifically designated “first come, first served”. Book it or forget it. Unless you KNOW people in high places…

So, after exhausting my attempts to find a campsite in Yosemite, I resorted to looking at campgrounds outside of the park that appeared to have availability or were first come, first serve and I did find a couple that I thought reasonable. One, which was on the way from Sacramento, didn’t allow bookings less than two days in advance but the website showed plenty of availability for tonight so I knew I could stay there if that was my only option. However, it was well over an hour outside of the park so staying there with a view to commuting to the park wasn’t too practical. Another place I found was strictly first come, first serve and it is much closer to the park and also Lee Vining, the town to the east of the park where the gas station has good food. That was my back up campground should the first somehow fill up before my arrival. The back up campground, which may yet come into play, is at 7,800 feet (about 2400  metres) elevation, so it is winter up there at night time.

It was pretty easy to get out of Sacramento as it was a simple matter of crossing over the freeway then driving straight south, which was very handy. Navigating around a big, totally unfamiliar city when you are on a motorcycle is occasionally challenging but his couldn’t have been easier. I rode 26 km before my first turn.

Based on the recommendation from Spencer, the Honda service “guy”, I had a fun and motorcycle-popular route laid out for getting to Yosemite and going by my two targeted campgrounds. Along the way, I had a very pretty view of the countryside that looked picture-worthy though I hadn’t been fast enough with the GoPro to get a picture and there was no safe place to pull over due to the narrow shoulder, so when a right turn presented itself, I took it. Unfortunately, I did not get the same view that I had seen earlier so I was disappointed but I did snap this one.

I noticed once I was off the targeted route that the GPS did not try to take me back the way I came, so I

just continued on the road that I was on. This ended up taking me through the town of Ione and as I approached the town, I saw there a grand steeple on a somewhat gothic looking building. My assumption is always that, out in the middle of nowhere, small towns often have a monument to their religious affiliation. As I was riding through town, I kept getting glimpses of the building and I decided to take a turn up a side street to see if I could get close enough for a better look. As it turns out, it is a former reform school, Preston Castle,
originally opened in 1894. When I rode up to the gate, which was closed, I noticed that there is still barb/razor wire on top of the fence and that there were vehicles inside the compound so I presumed it was still operating as a reform school. (editor’s note: I endlessly repeat the same joke when  meeting somebody that I went to reform school. In future, I can show a picture of this place.) In fact, I was able to grab a brochure from a box near the gate that told a little more about the place. It is NOT currently in use but there is a historical society charged with its upkeep and tours are possible, including ghost tours.

I arrived at the first campground I had targeted but as I had only been on the road for 182 km and it was still early afternoon, it seemed a shame to stop so early. Plus, the park person at the gate didn’t seem too clear on how far it was to Yosemite, which surprised me somewhat. He said “an hour or an hour and a half”. So I rode around the campground to have a look and even though it was nice and with lots of room, I didn’t stop.

It had occurred to me, as I was riding, that there might be an opportunity in Yosemite. The website this morning had indicated there are sometimes cancelations and to keep checking. I thought I would ask at the park before pushing on to my number 2 backup campground.

When I came to the gate, I paid $30 (the minimum for visitors) for one week’s park use. The gate

Queen Zoe on the left, Queen Sarah on the right.
attendant directed me to the camping office just inside the boundary where, if you can believe it, I met the queens of Yosemite, Queen Sarah and Queen Zoe. They asked what they could do for me. I said “you could find me a place to camp.” And they did! I’M SAVED! I told them they were my queens and would they like to be internationally famous and be featured on a motorcycle travel blog? They were keen for that so I told them I would be taking their picture. And they put on their crowns (park hats! But no handcuffs – different branch). Thank-you Your Highnesses!

After I had secured a tent site, and a nice one, too, I went back to the bike thinking I would call Nan and tell her I had found a place for the night but that there would be no cell service at the campground. But no service at the park gate, either! So I went back to my two queens and asked them if they would email Nan and tell her that I was ok for the night. I can only presume that happened.

And It IS a nice campground. Even though I HAVE a reservation, people still sign into the campgrounds here. At the entrance is Bill, a volunteer campground host. He lays out the ground rules for me: no riding deer or elk, no smearing peanut butter on myself to get a selfie with a bear and no food inside my tent. And then the usual other stuff. And because I am riding a motorcycle, Bill and I strike up a conversation. He actually rides a small dirt bike and he keeps it here at his campsite and uses it in the park, where he is allowed. And outside of the park. Bill offers me some firewood and some potable water. People have to bring their own wood and while there is a small stream with fresh, clear water, it needs to be treated or boiled. It’s that community, you know.





And, it turns out, Bill’s queens are Sarah and Zoe, too! Apparently, they travel out every morning to inspect their lands and meet their loyal subjects. They come by this campground every morning and get a coffee and bring Bill his morning paper. Maybe his slippers.

This is the old highway into Yosemite.


Day 11: Roseville (Sacramento) CA

Distance traveled: 228.4 km

Cumulative distance: 2785.9 km

Maximum speed: 123 kph

Moving average: 66 kph

Temperature range: 15.6 - 32. 4

I'm all done and ready to go with a new mirror and tire. 

Before leaving the Airbnb, I had a "map tour" from the host, Rob. He has a treasured collection of old maps, beautifully mounted and framed, all depicting centuries-old Scotland, England, Italy and parts of North America. They weren't necessarily from the time they were mean to depict but they were old, decades or hundreds of years. Rob had offered the tour when i arrived but I was so tired at that time that I just didn't think I would be able to give it the attention it deserved and thankfully, he was respectful of that. However, he was determined and his last opportunity was this morning since I was heading out. I indicated that the departure time would be 9:30 am. I was thankful that he had a phone conference at 9:00 am. I will say it was a fascinating presentation.

It turned out to be a 10:00 am departure. I checked Google Maps just before departure to make sure there were no obstacles and in fact, there was an "incident", closing the interstate to Sacramento. Even though I don't like riding interstate highways, I figured I needed to make an exception today because Honda was going to "squeeze me in" to mount the tire and I needed to be there as quick as reasonable. Since the decision about riding the interstate was made for me, I was forced to come up with an alternate route at the last second. That route turned out to be Hwy 128 up the Alexander Valley, through the heart of Napa, the Sierra Mountains and then across the plains into Sacramento. It was bittersweet. The ride was spectacular and took me past many wineries that I knew: Berringer, Sterling, Freemark Abbey, all wineries that I like. The road was twisty and there was an endless stream of super cars, classic convertibles and stretch limos, even before 11:00 am. I would love to ride this road when I wasn't worrying about being somewhere.

I had called Roseville Honda Motorsports in Sacramento to source a tire when I decided to make the switch. They didn't have what I wanted in stock however, they told me that there were two at the Roseville YAMAHA dealer, so I had called them and spoke to Colby on the parts desk. Colby held the tire for me and  said if he wasn't too busy, he could probably get it over to Honda for me, about 5 km away. I had been visualizing tying it onto the bike, with it resting on the back of the seat with ropes securing it to the top case.  

When I finally got to Yamaha about 1:30: Colby was on lunch and my heart sank. Luckily, I was 

Colby

milling about waiting for someone to fetch the tire and Colby came back onto his shift. He got the tire and then offered to drive it over in his car to Honda for me and suggested I follow him so I could find my way. Motorcycle riders are a community, which is why I always wave. Thanks again, Colby. 

When we get to Honda, I ask Colby if he is going to come in with me and trash-talk the Honda guys. A few of them know him and say hi. But it was short lived and he was on his way back to work; it didn't have time to fool around because they were short staffed today.

I am so late in the day that the service department tells me they can't promise it will get done, since they are backed up. It's 2:30, they close at 5:30 and the service guys hadn't taken lunch yet. My only alternative would have been to carry the tire with me, which would have presented its own set of challenges, not the least of which would have been a place to install it. I elect to have them work on it and if they don't get done, well, I'll have a weekend holiday in Sacramento (since Honda is closed  Mondays).

While I am waiting, I find myself a nearby motel with the flexibility to take me for either one night or three nights but I would tell them which when I showed up.  To my amazement, the service guys roll my bike out at 4:00 pm. They lend me a socket wrench to install my mirror so that I don't have to dig everything out of my kit. While I am doing that, the service rep gives me some tips about a route to Yosemite.

When I get checked into the motel, I go for a walk... to the bar. It is a bit of a dive bar; inside they have a glassed-in smoking section; something I have never seen before. There are about 15 people inside  including about 9 sitting at the bar. The bartender, who looks a great deal like Jason Mamoa, is hardworking and knows virtually all the customers by name and is quite respectful to me, even though he looks dangerous. Like me. 

bar poster

I didn't know karaoke was still a thing!

Smoking or non-smoking?

Day 10: Wine Country

 Distance traveled: 57.7 km

Cumulative distance: 2,557.5 km

Maximum speed: 116 kph

Moving average: 60 kph

Temperature range: 28.6 - 29.0

I had a chill day here in Windsor. I slept like a log until 8:00 am, my first sleep-in on the trip and it was worthwhile, though I was a little groggy initially and I had lost some incentive to pretty much do anything; especially get on the bike. Sat outside visiting with the host and his high school friend visiting from Maine. They have been friends since junior high, in the early 60s. Then i organized myself a new a new rear tire. That's what happens on longer trips. My existing tire I think would have lasted but it would really have been tired (no pun intended) by the time i got home.  I once did a trip with a fellow who tried to squeeze every kilometre from his rear tire and ended up regretting it. I decided on not taking a chance.
Being in wine country, I thought I should do some wine tasting. After a couple of coffees and some breakfast, I started coming around and my desire to have a worthwhile day improved. 

The last time we were here (which was probably in the 90s) the Sonoma wineries were mostly small, family wineries whereas the Napa wineries were the big chateau-styled estates.  Plus, in those days, Sonoma wineries didn't charge for a tasting. Not that I expected that now. I haven't been touring all over and I am sure there are family wineries around but the vibe has changed somewhat.

I hadn't spent a whole lot of time thinking about what wineries to visit so, like everything on this trip, i was choosing on the fly. I decided I would go to the Francis Ford Coppola Winery so, if nothing else, I could look at the movie memorabilia. Close by was another winery called Trione. I did not know the winery but I had read some positive commentary on it so I thought I would give it a try.

The first I visited was Trione.  Big estate but not really "chateau" style, they have 600 acres 
and only produce wine from 3% of their grapes, the rest being sold to other wineries. The gal conducting the tasting was... my vintage, and we had a discussion about the evolving nature of the wine industry and how young people are not interested in wine like we were, that they are more interested in craft beers. I think I had read the same article about a month ago. I enjoyed the wine there quite a bit and i would characterize it thus: if we were on a driving holiday, I would happily carry home a case but riding, I would not organize shipping a case to the border and then collecting it there later.  The person conducting the tasting, even knowing that I was on a motorcycle,  was astounded that i wasn't taking any with me. 

After, I went to the FFC winery. THIS is a palatial estate, definitely more French chateau styled, with an American twist. There is a swimming pool and a cocktail bar in the courtyard . When I presented myself, I was told $25 for a half hour tasting, $40 for a one hour tasting. I thought "more money, more time, more wine". Since i didn't want to move in I opted for the shorter session. The stuff I tasted was cheap plonk that you can get at any winery anywhere. I was very underwhelmed and left disappointed I had wasted a wine tasting. Turns out, the $40 tasting was more money, same quantity, better wine, carried further. However, looking at the movie memorabilia was interesting.











An actual Tucker. No. 37 of 50 produced.













I stopped on the way back to do a couple of errands and filled the gas tank so that I would have full range for my ride to Sacramento. Not sure how long it will take because the various sources of estimates are varying, from 2 1/4 hours to 3 1/4 hours; I'll assume the longer and hope for the shorter.

Brahm Stocker's Dracula costumes.

Copola's wall of fame.

Apocalypse Now 

Day 9: Windsor, Sonoma California

 Distance: 207.9 km

Cumulative distance: 2499.8 km

Maximum speed: 125 kph

Moving average: 60 kph

Temperature range: 16.0 - 35.8

Maximum elevation: 649 metres

I had spent the night before plotting out a destination for Thursday night. I figure after a week straight of camping I was due for a proper bed with sheets, so had booked an Airbnb.

When I get up, Russell is waiting for me and when he sees me walking to the shower, he calls out and asks me if I would like a cup of coffee. The old, classic "bait and switch". I said sure, after my shower. The shower is coin operated and only take quarters. So I plunk in three quarters only to discover that it takes a minimum of four to get the water going so I have to go back out and ask Russell if he can lend me a quarter. He gives me a $1 token. He saved me from a long walk in my pajamas back to the gate.

Once I have showered, Russell is ready for me. He asks how I like my coffee and he delivers a cup with WHIPPING cream. AND cleaning product. Russell wants to detail my bike. Maybe he thinks I'm a slob and that he could do better, I don't know and even though I am slightly embarrassed, not too much and he gets to work, Have at her, buddy. While he is doing this, he tells me about all the cleaning of vehicles he does, for himself, his neighbours, his neighbours who are away, that he has a long pole for cleaning high on his super fancy camper van and that he made a bunch of modifications to his van as he is a retired machinist from Boeing. I ask him if he has seen the Netflix documentary about the Boeing 737 Max. He seems oblivious, maybe because he has been retired for seven years. Russell loves to visit and the coffee was the price. It's ok, I'm not in too much of a hurry and he did lend me a dollar at a desperate time in my life. We spend well over an hour visiting. I get a thorough tour of his van and his modifications. Fortunately, his wife is waiting for them to go on a bicycle ride so when I tell him it is time for me to get about my chores, he only talks for about fifteen more minutes.

I start out on Hwy 101 and it is alternating between sun and fog. It is fresh at 16 degrees and I need to stop to put on a wind proof layer. But it is my final day on the coast so I need to be comfortable and happy.

The highway turns inland and I see a sign that says "coastal route" so I veer off. It is twisty, scenic and fun. On my left, the sky is sunny and on my right the sky is sometimes foggy, sometimes sunny. Not so foggy that I can't see something great, though. 

When I get through Manchester (California), I realize that had I not, on a lark, taken the coastal route, I would have missed my intended route over to Sonoma because Hwy 101 turns towards Sonoma much earlier than I wanted. And because I don't like riding freeways, I had specifically chosen to ride over the mountains on the narrow, twisty "Mountain View Road". Hwy 101 would have kept me from that ride.

That's all she wrote.
Close to the turn inland, I see I sign that says "coastal access" so for one last look and one last picture, I take that road and ride out to get a view. It is another rough road and in the middle of nowhere; at the nearly-end of the road, there is a state forest and what I think are a couple of acreages and what looks like an abandoned pickup truck. I get a fleeting view of that the ocean and that's it for who knows how long. Inland it is.

I start up Mountain View Road inland. It is as I visualized from looking at Google Maps: narrow and twisty. Also, enshrouded in forest. Lots of up and down, too and the road is not in good shape but it is hard surfaced all the way except where there was some road work happening. It was hard riding and after riding at 16 degrees earlier, it got warm real fast, made more challenging by how much work it was to navigate and throw the bike around. There is a large elevation gain of  650 metres. This is similar to the riding from yesterday but without the stress of being low on gas.





I arrive at the Airbnb around 5:00 pm, dog tired. They have a retriever, who is VERY happy to see me. This dog is not tired. I think I am going to have to ride to get dinner but as it turns out, it is only a brisk fifteen minute walk to downtown Windsor. My hosts tell me it is a safe neighbourhood and that my bike will be o.k. on its own out on the street.

I get a couple of recommendations and after I am settled into the place I head out. Much to my amazement, it is really fresh and I regret not wearing a jacket. This amazes me because of how hot it was earlier. This actually contributes to the area being such a good wine region: hot during the day and cool at night.

Once I am back, I have to retrieve a couple of things from the bike and find my camera and water bottle on the seat. Four hours after leaving it there. 

I was out for nearly two hours, including the walk, which is all I can handle for one day. Despite there being a hot tub and my goal to soak in there, I don't have it in me. But I am really glad for the change.


Epilogue: more photos

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